www.RBFORUMS.org

lol duh. ok once it gets warm im gonna get all this done

hey guys, had a question about the nvcs.. my car will hold 10.5 psi easily before it kicks over and after it kicks over it doesnt seem to go past 8 psi, was wondering if thats an issue or if its normal.

also would like to know the advantages/disadvantages of disconnecting it. i like when it turns over how the ass end drops and the car just goes, but i want my boost pressure to stay up.

You can see the difference here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=300

But I don't think vtc has anything to do with your boost problem. It's not kicking over, it's turning off in the upper rpm range.

lots of useful info on that thread, thanks for that. vct apparently is good, but what im not fully comprehending right now is when it shuts off at ~4500 why does the car seem to really take off? i thought it kicked on at 4500 with a +20 degree cam time.. ?

it seems like it is a huge boost leak, but i dont believe it is at all, it holds steady before and after the cam kicks over.. i was going uphill holding steady throttle at 10.5 psi, once i got over the hill and gave it more the cam kicked over and it dropped to 7.4 ish and held.

i need to get my pfc in and get to a dyno when i get some dyno money. (and with my pfc.. its actin crazy) first issue was battery drain while cranking, upgraded the eccs fuse and that stopped.. consistently though a relay (fuel pump im sure) has been clicking like crazy.. it starts kinda slow then it picks up and clicks extremely fast. i dont believe the relay is bad because when i put the stock ecu back in it primes and fires up just fine. do i need to upgrade my wire to a higher gauge or would i be better off just running my fuel pump on a switch and grounding the ecu wire for the fuel pump relay? i've been told that thats a big no no and will burn my fuel pump out cause it will stay on constant prime mode.

im trying to remain as independent as possible and do as much of my own work as possible, id rather have the experience than just have the work done for me and never know how to diagnose any future issues.

It probably feels like it's the vtc because that's when you are seeing peak torque. But you can see in the graph vtc has nothing to do with peak power, it's purpose is to increase low-mid range TQ.

so... im havin a problem now. car had rough idle before like get on it and let go and it would choke up like it wanted to stall out. now it wont even start, it will crank and catch but not start.. got it to start once then pulled maf cause it started the choke thing again since then it hasnt turned over. one time i tried it caught for a sec and died then not a second after it went dead it made a sound like a release of pressure or a late combustion sequence. couple of times while driving i had a surge when the vtc kicked over (surge and fall on face) wasnt at full throttle and figured it was because of that. also mist was seen by a mechanic coming from IM side on start up attempt when it almost turned over.


i need help bad to figure out what the hell it is. i have 2 options, tow it to storage and work on it, or leave it til i get back from afghan..

help please? i wanna drive it

EDIT: trying to wire in e60 maf... it had the j60 maf on it previously which i know is wrong because its an s2. wires on the plug match the wiring table on paulr33's page.. but the plug was spliced into the loom. loom has white and black wire shielded and a black with white stripe unshielded. need to know from left to right looking top down on e60 maf which wires go where, color unnecessary.. cant find this info anywhere.

If the e60 is tyhe pink label maf it should be the same as the S2 rb25.

Have you seen this?

its the pink label.. but the loom wires leading to the ecu dont match the colors specified by the diagrams which is what has me confuckulated i guess i should prolly get my voltmeter out when i go back to my car.. what are the readings im lookin for? i know pretty soon you're gonna start chargin for answers lol im just not horribly electronically inclined... the wrenching is no problem.. wiring kills me though.

e60 maf=
R=12v pin 3
B=G pin 2
W= signal pin 1

Rb25 s2
Black w/ White Trace - 12v
White w/ Blue Trace - G
Orange w/ Black Trace- Signal

got the maf wired... started yeterday, wouldnt hold idle and broke up around 4k...

also at like 1100 it wa only holdin 1.4 psi of vacuum. when revved to like 2k and let off a bit my bov would open up. thinkin cat might be clogged? changed plugs today gapped to .8mm and it wouldnt start at all' acted like it wanted to a couple of times but just wouldnt turn over.

black smoke turning to blue was fuel, no other smoke from exhaust or engine bay.

its killin me. also runnin ngk-bkr6e coppers, previous plugs were same heat range but iridium.

alternator is dirty would that keep it from starting? i wouldnt think it would.. but who knows at this point.

UPDATE:: tried my pfc to see if it would start with that and it did its same old clicky fuel pump relay thing so i replaced the relay and tried again.. and it did it again. on the connectors to the fuel pump i found my 12v with ign ON and there's also a green wire that was pullin like 3v. pin 43, the starter switch wire is only gettin 8v when i crank the engine.

help in either area there? im thinkin it more fuel than starter switch cause it'll start for me occasionally, but when it starts it wont hold idle so i kept it up at 4k for a bit and let the rpm freefall to about 2k; its like the car just stals out as soon as im not on the pedal.